Autumn trekking in El Chalten

Next Stop: El Chalten, Argentina (April 6-7, 2011). We bused over to El  Chalten for a few days to do a few hikes and glacier trekking. We were a little concerned that we were hitting the Patagonia region at the wrong time of year, seeing as it is the low season and heading into winter. We couldn´t have been more wrong. It was stunningly beautiful, the autumn colours were vibrant, the weather was cool, but not cold, and we enjoyed some of the most spectacular views of our trip thus far.

Saw: On our first day in El Chalten we hiked up to Cerro Fitzroy (base of Mount Fitzroy). It was  a 7.5 hour hike, about 23 km. My writing can´t do the views justice, so I´ll leave it to the pictures to attempt it.

Re-filling my water bottle in a glacial stream..best tasting water ever

The reward at the end of a grueling steep climb over loose wet rocks was this beautiful view of the milky blue Lago Los Tres right at the base of the towers.

Feeling accomplished

The next day we hiked to Cerro Torre to do a giuded glacier trek on Glacier Grande, a 25km, 12 hour day.

In order to get to the glacier, we started the trek before sunrise, walked for a few hours, then crossed a large stream via a ¨Tyrolean rope,¨followed by more hiking and scrambling up moraines of loose boulders on steep inclines - not for the weak of heart.

Fun with shadows

We got to the Glacier, and strapped on some crampons to take a walk on the ice. Unfortunately, this is one of the glaciers that is receeding. The black on the ice is a result of the glacier´s movements crushing the rocks in its path.

As if the day wasn´t full enough, we then tried our hand at ice climbing.

Although the day as a whole was great, my feet were in a lot of pain. After 5 years, my trusty old hiking boots were starting to fail me, and they picked a pretty bad time to do so...with a four day trek in Torres del Paine just 2 days away...

Stayed: Rancho Urbano hostel. This hostel does not even deserve a mention, except as a warning to other travelers not to stay there. It was crap. The only reason we stayed was because it was included in a package we bought to do the ice trekking. The beds were horrible, internet was not free and breakfast was not included, both of which are pretty standard inclusions in all other South American hostels. A better bet would be Aylen-Aike Hostel, we heard a lot of good things about that one.

Ate: The best steak I have ever eaten (yet) at Como Vaca (¨How Cow¨) in El Chalten. For 55 pesos (approx. $15 CAD) they bring you 400g of steak in two pieces...enough to feed two. Unfortunately (or fortunately) Erin and I don´t like our steak cooked the same way so we each ordered a serving.

Quotes:

¨If I left $1000 up on that glacier, there is no way in hell that I would go back to get it.¨ - my conclusion at the end of the 12 hour glacier trek.

¨Where is that damn teleportation device when you need one?¨ - muttered between painful steps towards the end of the 12 hour glacier trek.