Autumn trekking in El Chalten

Next Stop: El Chalten, Argentina (April 6-7, 2011). We bused over to El  Chalten for a few days to do a few hikes and glacier trekking. We were a little concerned that we were hitting the Patagonia region at the wrong time of year, seeing as it is the low season and heading into winter. We couldn´t have been more wrong. It was stunningly beautiful, the autumn colours were vibrant, the weather was cool, but not cold, and we enjoyed some of the most spectacular views of our trip thus far.

Saw: On our first day in El Chalten we hiked up to Cerro Fitzroy (base of Mount Fitzroy). It was  a 7.5 hour hike, about 23 km. My writing can´t do the views justice, so I´ll leave it to the pictures to attempt it.

Re-filling my water bottle in a glacial stream..best tasting water ever

The reward at the end of a grueling steep climb over loose wet rocks was this beautiful view of the milky blue Lago Los Tres right at the base of the towers.

Feeling accomplished

The next day we hiked to Cerro Torre to do a giuded glacier trek on Glacier Grande, a 25km, 12 hour day.

In order to get to the glacier, we started the trek before sunrise, walked for a few hours, then crossed a large stream via a ¨Tyrolean rope,¨followed by more hiking and scrambling up moraines of loose boulders on steep inclines - not for the weak of heart.

Fun with shadows

We got to the Glacier, and strapped on some crampons to take a walk on the ice. Unfortunately, this is one of the glaciers that is receeding. The black on the ice is a result of the glacier´s movements crushing the rocks in its path.

As if the day wasn´t full enough, we then tried our hand at ice climbing.

Although the day as a whole was great, my feet were in a lot of pain. After 5 years, my trusty old hiking boots were starting to fail me, and they picked a pretty bad time to do so...with a four day trek in Torres del Paine just 2 days away...

Stayed: Rancho Urbano hostel. This hostel does not even deserve a mention, except as a warning to other travelers not to stay there. It was crap. The only reason we stayed was because it was included in a package we bought to do the ice trekking. The beds were horrible, internet was not free and breakfast was not included, both of which are pretty standard inclusions in all other South American hostels. A better bet would be Aylen-Aike Hostel, we heard a lot of good things about that one.

Ate: The best steak I have ever eaten (yet) at Como Vaca (¨How Cow¨) in El Chalten. For 55 pesos (approx. $15 CAD) they bring you 400g of steak in two pieces...enough to feed two. Unfortunately (or fortunately) Erin and I don´t like our steak cooked the same way so we each ordered a serving.

Quotes:

¨If I left $1000 up on that glacier, there is no way in hell that I would go back to get it.¨ - my conclusion at the end of the 12 hour glacier trek.

¨Where is that damn teleportation device when you need one?¨ - muttered between painful steps towards the end of the 12 hour glacier trek.

Glacier lovin´ in El Calafate

Next Stop: El Calafate, Argentina (April 4-5, 2011). We arrived in El Calafate a little bit ahead of schedule because of the Ushuaia mishap but it worked out nicely since there is quite a bit to do in this area.

Saw: We took a day trip to Los Glaciares National Park to have a look at the Perito Moreno Glacier. You can´t understand how amazing this thing is until you see it for yourself. It covers an area of approximately 250 km squared (larger than the city of Buenos Aires) and is about as high as a 20 story building. It is also one of the few remaining glaciers in the world that is still advancing. We took a boat right up to about 300 metres away from its base for an up close and personal perspective and then spent the rest of the afternoon just staring at it, listening to it crack and move, waiting and watching with awe as huge pieces broke off and crashed into the water below, making the most thunderous noise. It was just breathtaking, like a living thing.



The ¨I´m-so-excited-to-be-here!¨ jump shot 



Aftermath of a glacier rupture


Stayed: Che Legarto hostel in El Calafate. It was very nice, the beds and showers were great and it had good communal areas. The reception staff were also very welcoming and helpful. I´d recommend this one.

Ate: A waffle sandwich...yup, it was mighty delicious and made with savoury waffles, as opposed to sweet











Sushi! I´m surprised I last this long before having it

Calafate ice cream. Calafate is a berry that grows here and the legend is that if you eat it, you will come back. Of course, I had to eat it.



Quotes:

¨Stop teasing me!!¨- me to the Perito Moreno glacier as I waited impatiently for pieces to break off (calve).

¨Have you ever brushed your teeth with glacier water? Well now is your chance.¨ - me

Uruguay for a day

Next Stop: Colonia del Sacramento, Uruguay (March 29-30, 2011). We hopped over to Uruguay for a day while in Buenos Aires. It´s a quick hour catamaran ride from Buenos Aires (we traveled with Colonia Express) and a nice calm break from the bustling city.

Saw: Colonia was lovely, picturesque and romantic with cobbled streets and old cars, it really felt like a step back in time.

Stayed: El Viajero hostel. It was a nice hostel in a 19th century house located close to the historical part of town. The rooms and showers were good, no complaints about staying here. 

Ate: Besides enjoying some Sangria overlooking the waterfront, we were experimental and tried some local dishes....

Chivitas for two: a platter of steak, ham, cheese, french fries, russian salad, mixed greens all topped with 2 eggs sunny side up.It was good!

I can´t remember the name of this one, it was a meat roll of sorts, with veggies and egg cooked into it.

La dulce vida in Buenos Aires

Next Stop: Buenos Aires, Argentina (March 27-April 4, 2011). What can I say about this city? I knew I would like it, but, wow, it was amazing. The city itself isn´t terribly picturesque, but the energy and the vibe just grab you from the start. We spent just a week here and it wasn´t nearly enough to see everything we wanted to see, but just enough to know that we will be back.

Along with sightseeing during the day, we also made sure to experience the vibrant nightlife. Pretty much every night of the week there is somewhere to go in Buenos Aires. I urge caution, however, in indulging too much in the nightlife as this sometimes leads to travel complications...such as missing a flight. Yes...we fell victim to this one. A series of unfortunate events involving a late night outing, a rushed exit from the hostel, a lapse in organization on our part and an uncommunicative taxi driver all came together at once to ensure that we ended up at the wrong airport in Buenos Aires (there are 2 airports), with too little time to get back to the right one. So, although we then had to re-arrange plans and skip over Ushuaia (supposed to be the most southern city in the world), at least we were able to get a refund on the flight (even though we canceled the flight only a half hour befor the plane was to leave!). A minor setback, and a good travel story I guess!

 





































Saw: For just a taste of what we experienced in Buenos Aires, I´ll let the pictures speak for themselves.

City Centre

Wall art in La Boca

Caminito in La Boca

Tango poses. It was about at this moment that he said to me: ¨Strong legs!¨

Tango show at Bar Sur in San Telmo

Floralis Generica in Recoleta

Cemetary in Recoleta. Eva Peron´s (Evita´s) tomb is here but it is not this one

Stayed: Chill House in Abasto, Buenos Aires. It wasn´t a neighbourhood you would want to especially visit, but it was centrally located so it was easy to get to all other areas of Buenos Aires. I can´t say enough good things about the Chill House owners Kato and Antoine, who were so welcoming and helpful. By the time we left, we felt more like we were staying with friends than at a hostel. On one of our nights there, the owners prepared a rooftop asado (a type of barbecuing of meats) for the guests and it was delicious. I would most definitely recommend this place for people who are looking for a laid back place to stay.

Typicial Argentinian asado at the hostel

Our cute little twin bed room

Met: The people in Argentina are super friendly as a whole. Everyone we came across was smiley and pleasant, even in the supermarket, while pondering over which item to buy, we were often approached by people offering unsolicited advice on which was best. Erin and I also met two porteños (residents of Buenos Aires) Santiago and Juan Pablo, who became good friends over our last few days in Buenos Aires. Instead of just seeing the sights and tourist attractions in a city, I love it when you meet people who actually live there, learning a little bit more about the culture of the place. That sums up Buenos Aires for me, it wasn´t so much about what we were doing every day and what we were seeing, but just experiencing the city and soaking it all in.

Erin, Juan Pablo, me, Santiago

Ate: I think I ate my weight´s worth of steak in Buenos Aires.
Anyone going to Buenos Aires must go to Desnivels (855 Defensa, San Telmo). Amazing steak. I was so hungry and mezmerized that I forgot to take a picture...sorry! We wanted to try out La Cabrera in Palermo, another extremely popular steakhouse, but it was completely booked out when we wanted to go. The draw of this one is that they serve you champagne out on the sidewalk while you wait for a table to become available. Although the steak was to die for, we tried other types of cuisine as well (Peruvian, Italian...) and I have to say that I was not dissapointed once. The food in Argentina is amazing.

Churros con chocolate

Pumpkin ravioli..mmmmm

Seafood risotto

Quotes: 
"Pretty, pretty, pretty woman....te amo." - Argentinian guy professing his love for me. An interesting way to start a conversation, if you ask me.

"Taking risks in Buenos Aires! I´m rinsing with tap water!" - Me brushing my teeth after a night out on the town.

Shop owner: "U gay?" Me: "No...I´m not gay..." - Conversation fail between shop owner and myself. He actually was asking "U.K?", as in, are you from the U.K?
  
"Ushuaia. Control-Alt-Delete." - Erin after having missed our flight to Ushuaia.